RB26 oil filter block

It’s an article about the oil filter block where the oil filter is attached. Under the plenum is located the oil filter block. On standard RB26 engine the oil filter block includes a kind of « water-cooled oil cooler », as seen in the picture below.

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The basic principle is that the body of the block lets water go through it to cool down the oil (they’re two nipples on the left of the oil filter block). Being small and located very closed to the engine you can imagine it not very effective.

You can find some pros and cons about the effectiveness of that water-cooled oil cooler on various forums about the Skyline. What has not been very discuss is the alternative found on N1 engine. On N1 engines the oil filter block is different. Check out the image below taken from the Nissan workshop manual :

RB_N1_oil_block_filter

You can see the oil filter block has no longer the water cooler nipples and it’s smaller. But it has two new plugs for oil lines …. heading to an air oil cooler ! On N1 engine the water-cooled oil filter block is replaced by a smaller oil filter block working with an oil cooler. It makes more room under the plenum (less pipes and smaller oil filter block) and it’s more effective :

RB_N1_oil_block_filter_cooler

Sadely that oil filter block is no longer available from Nissan and it might has been difficult to use because of the specific oil tubes attached to it. But I found 4 alternatives  !

They will require to relocate the oil filter but it’s a good thing as the original filter location always lead to oil drops and it’s inconvenient in every way.

  • a Ross performance https://rossperformanceparts.com/product/nissan-rb-oil-return-adaptor/
  • a Ross Tuffbond https://rawbrokerage.com/collections/rb30/products/ross-tuffbond-remote-oil-filter-adapter-for-nissan-rb20-rb25-rb26
  • a Taarks https://www.efisolutions.com.au/oil-block-an10-rb20-rb25-rb26-rb30
  • a JHH Racing https://jhhracing.com.au/products/jhh-racing-rb-oil-distribution-blocks

That’s the 4 I found but there might be others. Just make sure the one you will choose accept the OEM sensors (oil pressure and oil temp).

They will accept AN-10 and AN-12 fittings. The ross-tuffbond version is the only one in AN-12 the other are in AN-10 but will work with AN-12 adapters.

That how it looks once installed :

Taarks

Should you go for AN-10 or AN-12 ?

Both will be enough to flow oil to the oil cooler without pressure drop so it makes no difference from a performance point of view. For a very long time Nismo optional oil cooler was using AN-12 lines. But their latest oil cooler option uses AN-10. And HKS and other japanese brands have been using AN-10 and these big brands can be trusted.

AN-10 will be slighty smaller so easier to fit when you don’t have much space around so probably best to go with AN-10.

I went for the Taarks because you can use the OEM sensors and you can use either AN-10 or AN-12 fittings.

I’m sure many of you have seen R26 engine bays like this :

RB26_remote_oil_filter_engine_bay

For sure it’s bling but I don’t like it as it’s way too easy to drop oil when changing the oil filter. Let me show you what japanese guys do :

1/ Interesting location but it’s weird to have the oil cooler in such location. But oil filter is easy to change without messing with the oil.

rb26-oil-filter-relocation-3

2/ Weird location but I doubt it’s easy to remove the oil filter and it’s too much closer to the alternator for my taste.

rb26-oil-filter-relocation-5

3/ I like the location of this one. It’s one of the area where there is room to relocate the oil filter. But I’m not convince by the lines heading to the oil filter as they would contact with the engine bay tray.

rb26-oil-filter-relocation-4

4/ Same location but different position. Lines going to the oil cooler leave room for the under tray engine and the oil filter is easy to remove. That’s my favorite.

rb26-oil-filter-relocation-1

 

 

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Un article assez court pour apporter une précision importante suite à des lectures que j’ai pu voir sur plusieurs forums.

Je reviens sur l’article Rendre conforme le faisceau de phare d’une Skyline R34 dans lequel j’expliquais pourquoi il fallait convertir le faisceau des phares avant. C’est valable pour tout véhicule importé qui a été fait pour la circulation à gauche. Le faisceau est asymétrique pour éclairer davantage sur le bas coté (et ainsi voir plus tôt un obstacle surgir, ou un piéton) qu’au centre.

J’avais montré les schémas suivants : à gauche circulation à gauche, à droite circulation à droite (conforme chez nous donc) :

800px-Phare_code_rhd 800px-Phare_code

Sur plusieurs forums ou il était question d’importation, certains ont compris que …les faisceaux des 2 phares n’étaient pas identiques !!

Mais que c’était le phare situé le plus proche du bas coté qui éclairait davantage sur le coté, et le phare proche du centre de la route éclairait donc moins. En gros qu’on aurait ca (la ligne pointillée rouge symbolise la zone d’éclairage de chaque phare, même si en vrai ce serait plus diffus)
faisceaux_phares_differents

Il se trouve que c’est archi faux. Les phares conducteur et passager produisent exactement le même faisceau. Si vous doutez toujours, dès qu’il fait un peu sombre, placer votre voiture à 10m d’un mur, droit de préférence. Allumez les feux de croisement, cacher un phare, observez le faisceau, cacher l’autre et découvrer celui qui était masqué… c’est le même faisceau !

Pour une question de simplification (et aussi sans doute parce qu’on se disait que c’était évident que les 2 faisceaux étaient identiques) le schéma représente la zone d’éclairage de la voiture, pas le faisceau des phares. Si on avait voulu représenter le faisceau des phares, on aurait fait partir un point lumineux depuis chaque phare, ou la zone d’éclairage de chaque phare serait identique. Je ferai un schéma si j’ai le courage !

 

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You may want or need an english version of the R34 user’s manual for various reasons unless you are confortable with japanese. Or you may want it because it’s required to register the car.

I’ve never heard of an official Nissan owners manual as the R34/33/32 were only made for the japanese domestic market (JDM). Lucky for us a small company specialized in translation has translated the japanese version in english. And translation being the heart of their business they have translated many owners manual from japanese to english !

This is their official website : https://jpnz.co.nz/.

Back to the R34, the manual cover all the RB variations including the RB26. You can get it from two different places :

You will also find R32 and R33 owners manual in both places :

Here are a couple of pages so you get an idea.

R34_owners_manual_cover R34_owners_manual_p81 R34_owners_manual_250

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A quick article about replacing the cabin air filter in your R34.

R34 old & new cabin air filter

Choosing the correct filter

The air filter is the same on all R34 according to rhdjapan and a compatible part number is the « AY684-NS002″ (which is the pollen filter, but there is also a charbon active filter).

I wasn’t very keen on ordering such a common part from Japan. I though it should be available from Europe. Well … it’s been a real PITA to find a suitable part. The R34 cabin air filter are share accross various Nissan models. But most of them are old or they were never sold in Europe. Except one : the Nissan Maxima (A33). So I search a cabin air filter and I found parts from various manufacturers.

Here is one from BluePrint : ADN12537 (dimensions are wrong on their site but the part is compatible with OEM part number).

Before ordering I disassembled (read below for disassembling) the actual cabin air filter and I measured them : 255x95x32mm. Here’s the trouble : the dimensions of the actual filter don’t match the dimensions of the filters of Nissan Maxima found from other manufacturers.

Hell …. best way was to search a  filter with compatible dimensions. I finally found a very good matching filter : 293x96x32. Cut to length would make it an excellent match and cabin air filter are easy to cut with sharp scissors. I ordered a Mann Filter cabin air filter as they offered activated carbon filter with polyphenol (extra filtering properties according to them). Reference is FP 29 003-2 but you can also choose a carbon filter with the reference CUK 29 003-2 or a standard pollen filter with the reference CU 29 003-2. The main advantage with this type of filter is to be very common and it’s used in Peugeot, Citroen and Toyota models and it’s available from many manufacturers (Bosch, BluePrint, …).

Below is a list of compatible filters you can get from amazon (the best bang for buck is probably the Purflux AHC261-2 at 13,99 euros).

Disassembling the cabin air filter

It’s a 30min job once you know how to do it. Be gentle to not break or scratch things. Six steps for disassembling :

  1. remove the glove box by sliding the clips toward the inside of the glove box and separate the glove box retainer
  2. remove the ECU panel : drop the plastic nut and pull firmly but slowly in the opposite direction as it’s maintained with two springs
  3. Remove the 6 screws and you should see something similar to the following picture
  4. remove the retainer metal clip (1) with a flat screw driver and slide the white panel upward (2) : you can see the two frames holding the filters
  5. remove the two frames, drop the dirty filters. Cut the new filters to correct length (I cut them to 255mm but 256 would even be better)
  6. when reassembling be carefull as some filters have an air flow direction. When facing the glove box the air flow goes from the left to the right
  7. install the filters gently in the frames
  8. revert steps from 5 to 1 and you are done !

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R34 cabin air filter

20190703_185439

R34 cabin air filter "FP 29 003-2"

 

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Some of you may already aware that Nissan has started its heritage parts programm last year where they restart the production of R32 parts. It was limited to small parts, hoses, gaskets. Production parts have been extented for R33 and R34 as well.

The 25/03/2019 Nismo annonced the RB26DETT block and head are back in production. This is crazy good ! It’s available under Nismo references 11000-RHR20 and 11040-RHR20. This means you can build a brand new 30 years old engine thanks to Nismo. You will notice parts are available through Nismo references and not Nissan references.

Listed in the available parts is the reference A1000-RHR30. It replaces part A1000-24U00 that was …. the RB26DETT N1 block (pricing high sadly).

I can only thanks Nismo to put back into production old parts to support older cars :-D

Nismo_11000-RHR20

Nismo_11040-RHR20

 

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